Step-by-Step Guide to Lifting Lashes – Ultimate Guide to Lash & Brow Artistry | Ruthie Belle

Step-by-Step Guide to Lifting Lashes

by Martin Pork
The Steps of Ruthie Belle Lash Lift

Step 2: Apply Easy Lift

Easy Lift has a dual purpose: 

  1. To prepare lashes for the treatment by making the lash structure super soft so they are easier to pull onto the silicone shield 
  2. To fully open lash cuticles without dehydrating lashes like regular primers do
Open cuticles allow the lotions to penetrate deeper into the lash for maximum effect. 
Before Easy Lift / Superdry / Easy Wrap
After Easy Lift / Superdry / Easy Wrap

Easy Lift should be used every time you perform a Ruthie Belle Lash Lift and it’s absolutely required for:

  1. Customers whose natural lashes tend to grow criss-cross
  1. Lashes that have a very strong structure
  2. Lashes that have a changing growth direction

Easy Lift is intended ONLY to be used with super gentle Ruthie Belle Lash Lift & Brow Lift product series, as it enhances the effect of the curling lotion. If it’s used with a more aggressive Lash lift brand, the lashes can easily over process.

Apply Easy Lift onto the lashes, using a tapered microfiber brush (microfiber lip wands). Apply it generously – use as much product as necessary to thoroughly cover the lashes but avoid flooding the eyes. The product needs 30 seconds to do its magic and it doesn’t need to be removed or rinsed.

Step 4: Apply silicones/rods

There are many different types of silicone shields and Lash Lifting rods available on the market. The biggest difference between shields and rods is that rods are rounder (so it’s easier to create a beautiful round effect with them) but the tips of the lashes are often longer than the height of the rod, so it is almost impossible to tint them on the rod without getting tint on the eyelids. Also, it is easier to iron out the kinks from the previous lift when lashes are supported by the silicone, so my personal preference belongs to shields. I recommend testing different types of both shields and rods to find what suits you the best!

NB! Silicone shields may be used ONLY 4-5 times before they become unhygienic and start transferring germs between clients. Read about the science behind this.

How to choose silicone size?

Choice of the shield size depends on: 

  1. Eyelid shape (regular or sagging)
  2. Lash growth direction  
  3. Desired effect
  4. Lash length 

It’s recommended to have a look at the first three (lash growth direction, eyelid shape and desired effect) during consultation, when customer’s eyes are open and fully decide on the shield size during the treatment after measuring the length of the lashes. 

The smaller the silicone size, the stronger the curl it creates.   

S – small (intense curl) 

M – medium (medium curl) 

M1 – (slighter curl than with medium) 

M2 – (slighter curl than with M1) 

L – large (natural curl, perfect for relaxing lashes that are naturally too curly)

Over time all lash artists also develop their preferences on shield sizes but to begin with, I would recommend choosing the shield size depending on the length of the customer’s natural lashes. Use the lash lifting tool to measure lash length like this:

Here are the lash lengths and corresponding shield sizes I’d recommend: 

  • Lashes shorter than 7 mm – S 
  • 7–8 mm – M 
  • 9–10 mm – M1 
  • 11–12 mm – M2 
  • Lashes longer than 12 mm – L           

How to apply silicone shields?

The glue we use for Lash Lifting (Lash Lift adhesive) is water-soluble and has nothing to do with eyelash extension glue. This means that if someone is allergic to cyanoacrylate (the main ingredient of eyelash extension glues) they won’t necessarily be allergic to Lash Lifting. In fact, Lash Lifting would be the best alternative if anyone becomes allergic to eyelash extension glue! 

If you want to soften the silicone shields, roll them between your fingers prior to use.

PRO TIP: There is a silly trend going around using micropore tape on eyelids underneath the silicone shields. This is supposed to make removing the silicones after the treatment easier. Why do I say that it’s silly? Because there is absolutely no need for it! If you follow this guide you will be able to remove the silicones with ease without using this old school tape on the most sensitive skin humans have. Micropore tape is super sticky and dries out the skin of the eyelids for absolutely no reason.  

Hold the shield from its outer corner while positioning it: for instance, from the right if you are working on the right eye. Lift the customer’s eyelid gently in order to check that the silicone shield is placed as close to the lash line as possible.

If you are a beginner, try positioning the shield without glue a couple of times first to achieve the right feel; when you are feeling confident, use the shield with glue. Pull the eyelid up a little with your finger, position the inner corner first and hold it in place with your finger. Then lift the outer side of the eyelid and position the shield there. Gently hold the shield in place for a moment with your fingers to allow it to attach properly to the eyelid.

NB! Apply the glue quickly to the silicone shield. It doesn’t have to be applied super evenly to the shield. It is more important to prevent the glue from drying out before the shield is in place.  

When the silicone shield is in place, check its distance from the edge of the eyelid. If you see any skin between the shield and the lashes, the gap is too big and the shield must be positioned again. When silicone is too far from lashes it will result in a lesser curl and makes the waterline flip.

If most of the silicone is placed well, but only part of it is too close/far, lift that part of the silicone, and apply more glue underneath and reposition. This will save you time, especially if you are still starting out.

Step 5: Comb lashes onto the silicone shield and isolate them

Always comb the lashes straight up in the inner corner. In the outer corner you can brush them straight up or slighltly outward (only if your customer has very long lashes as this reduces the effect of the lift) for a cat eye effect. Hold the silicone shield in place with your fingers while combing, this avoids excess movement of the shield and makes the process easier. 

It’s absolutely fine to readjust the direction of lashes a couple of times to get it right. To do that, just add another layer of glue to the lashes as it will dissolve the glue underneath. The efficiency of the lotions depends on the amount of glue used so when you see that the glue layer is starting to get too thick from repositioning lashes it’s a good idea to remove it with a damp lip wand and start over. Remove ONLY the part that you’re not happy with not all of the lashes!

Start combing and isolating lashes from the inner corner of the eye, using a Lash Lift tool or a Y-tool. Apply the glue onto the silicone shield in 5 mm portions and then comb the lashes upwards. If you apply the glue to the whole shield at once, the glue will be dry by the time you reach the outer corner. The glue dries in approx. 10 seconds on the shield. 

Comb the lashes upwards firmly in order to attach them properly to the shield. If you attach the lashes weakly, they will loosen more easily from the shield which complicates the rest of the procedure. The lift will also come out stronger if lashes have been brushed up firmly. 

NB! Make sure when combing the eyelashes onto the silicone shields that the waterline doesn’t flip. It usually flips when silicone has been placed too far from the lash line and/or lashes are pulled up too strongly. The flipped waterline weakens the curl. 

Flipped waterline

NB! The lashes should be properly isolated on the silicone shield! They must not be bent, criss crossed or clumped together. The way they are positioned on the silicone is the way they will look after the treatment. Some lash artists like the effect of clumped together lashes after the treatment but when lashes start growing out they will continue growing in that same direction and after a few weeks they will start looking very uneven and unattractive. 

It’s normal that it takes quite a bit of time (especially when you’re first starting out as a Lash Lift artist) to place the shields and isolate lashes. Don’t get frustrated because of that or rush yourself – it makes ALL the difference in the end look and it’s what will make your customers come back to you!

Keep checking the direction of the lashes you are pulling onto the shield as you go along – they must come straight up from their base. It’s easier to correct any mistakes on the go instead of dissolving the glue once it has completely hardened. Here is a tip how to do that easily – press down the tip of the silicone gently so that the bases of the lashes become clearly visible:  

PRO TIP: When you have finished isolating lashes, remove the eye pad (or pull it down a lot from the inner corner if the top lid is touching the cheek bone) to reveal ALL of the small lashes in the inner corner. Use your magnifying glasses if you don’t see them otherwise. Lifting 100% of the tiny lashes in the inner corner is guaranteed to take your lifts to the next level!   

Step 6: Apply curling/lifting/perming lotion

The purpose of the curling lotion is to break the di-sulfide bonds in the lash keratin to allow the lash to be shaped. Click here for in-depth Curling Lotion chemistry information.

NB! It is of utmost importance to understand that our lotions are like night and day compared to aggressive lotions and HAVE to be used differently to get the best result. Our regular and organic lifting lotion are used exactly the same way

Always start applying curling lotion from the outer corner of the eye as the outer corner lashes are ALWAYS thicker and stronger than inner corner lashes so they need more processing time to lift as much as inner corner lashes. Remember – the more evenly lifted the lashes are, the more beautiful they look! 

Due to the gentle formula: 

  1. The lotion can be applied to the entire length of the lashes. This is perfect for ironing out kinks in the tips of the lashes from the previous lift 
  2. The customer’s lashes will look just as perfect after multiple Lash Lifts as after the initial procedure without getting damaged or dehydrated 
  3. If anything goes wrong during the procedure (for instance, the curl is too weak), our product allows the procedure to be repeated immediately in order to correct the mistakes. Other products require 3-4 weeks before the procedure can be redone without damage. 
  4. Lifts may be repeated however often you want. This means that if your customer wants to freshen up their lift after a week or two it’s absolutely fine! PRO TIP: Bear that in mind for the shedding season when lashes grow faster than usual

NB! The product is highly sensitive to oxygen so avoid opening the package. If you perform Lash Lift treatment very infrequently (1x per week or less), pump out lotion that has been in the nozzle before the treatment as it may be oxidized.

How long should I process curling lotion?

Our lotions have such a gentle formula that you can safely test different timings with it without having to worry about over processing lashes!! You can cover half of the lashes or even full length, without causing damage to them. The higher you continue applying the curling lotion, the stronger the curl you will get. Bear that in mind when testing timings – increase only the amount of lotion or processing time at a time to fully understand how it changes the look of the lift.

Due to the innovative formulation our curling lotion loses its curling power after 15 mins so it will no longer have an impact on lashes. This means that there is no point in keeping it on for longer than 15 mins.

Apply the product onto the lashes, starting from the outer corner lash roots (see photo). Apply the product generously, so that the lashes are properly covered and do not show through the lotion. Make sure to cover AT LEAST half of the lash length as shown on the photo or the lashes will not lift.

Our gentle formulation is like night and day compared to aggressive lotions and if you use as little as is required with aggressive lotions you will not get a good lift!

Application of curling lotion

The timings for our curling lotion are between 9 and 15 mins. Remember – the more glue you use the longer you should process.

Remove with a dry cotton swab after processing.

NB! You can cover the curling lotion with cling film and add a heating mask to reduce timings and/or get a stronger lift.

Step 7: Apply Fixing Lotion

Fixing lotion neutralizes the pH level of the lashes after the curling lotion and fixes the new curl by restoring the di-sulfide bonds. Read in-depth about Fixing Lotion chemistry.

PRO TIP: If any lashes come off after removing the curling lotion, use either transpore tape soft or glue nozzle wipe cut in half to secure them. Remember – the more uniformly the lashes are lifted the more perfect they look! Just press it ever so slightly after applying Fixing lotion or Shine Repair onto the shield.

Always start applying fixing lotion from the inner corner lashes, neutralizing the effect of the curling lotion there first. Apply fixing lotion along the length of the lashes to neutralize the effect of the curling lotion. Remember – inner corner lashes are always thinner and weaker than outer corner lashes so they need less processing time.

Exposure time is always 7 minutes for any lash type

NB! 7 minutes is enough to restore di-sulfide bridges in ANY lash type. This means that if you are not happy with the strength of the curl after the treatment, increase ONLY the timings of the curling lotion. Increasing processing time for the fixing lotion will not make the curl stronger, you’ll only waste more time. Remove with a dry cotton swab.

Fixing lotion is not sensitive to oxygen so there is no need to pump anything out even if you haven’t used it for a while.

You can purchase our Fixing lotion in syringes (and then refill them with cartridges) that are enough for about 15 treatments or airless pump bottles that are enough for about 30 treatments. If you do many Lash and/or Brow Lift treatments we recommend getting the airless pump bottles as they are more cost effective. Our Fixing lotion is meant for both eyelashes and eyebrows.

Step 8: Tint the lashes

After removing the fixing lotion, tint the lashes with a chemical dye of your preference.

Our lotions are so gentle that tinting is usually the most irritating part of the treatment for the customer. If your customer has sensitive eyes, stay 1mm away from the skin to avoid watery eyes. Always make sure that the tint doesn’t get in the eyes. If your customer feels any irritation during that stage, the reason is ALWAYS tint getting onto the wet line or eyes so in case that happens check those first. Most people feel tint as soon as it gets on the wet line so remove it as soon as they feel it to prevent it from getting into the eyes. It’s best to remove it with a damp cotton swab.

Always use a high quality tint for a long lasting result. My personal favorite is a German brand called Schwarzkopf  that creates a super dark and long lasting effect.

After the tinting stage the cuticles of the lashes are still somewhat lifted so that tint goes into the lashes easier. This means that you can reduce the timings of the tinting compared to tinting without lifting. With Schwarzkopf I usually tint 5-7 mins. Remove with a dry cotton swab.

Step 9: Apply Shine Repair

All modern Lash Lift systems end with a nourishing product to put moisture back into the lashes and to add nourishing agents to it. 

Currently, Shine Repair is the most innovative of all of its competitive products in the world as it does not only do everything that all its competitors do but it also FULLY (up to 99.9%!) closes all lash cuticles and fully neutralizes the pH. This means that there is no more waiting after the treatment before your customers can get their lashes wet or use mascara. With Shine Repair they can apply mascara immediately after the treatment or even go into a steam room, sauna or pool without having to worry that the lift will drop! 

Read in-depth about Shine Repair chemistry.

How to use Shine Repair? 

Apply a thick coat onto the lashes and cover with soft transpore tape or glue nozzle wipe as Shine Repair also dissolves lash glue and makes lashes come off the shield. Leave on for 6 minutes, regardless of the length and thickness of the lashes 

If you notice spots where Shine Repair absorbs into the lashes completely, this indicates that the lashes there are very damaged – add more Shine Repair to those spots.

After 6 minutes remove excess lotion with a damp cotton swab and lashes should come off the silicone shield with ease.

Step 10: Loosen lashes from the silicone shield

If there are some lashes that haven’t come loose from the silicone shield after using Shine Repair, hold the shield in place with one hand and hold a microfiber brush in the other. Wet the microfiber brush thoroughly with Clean 11 foam and move it to the left and right on the shield, gently applying pressure. This will loosen the last lashes from the shield (photo 1). If there are any lashes still stuck on the shield, you can also use a Lash Lift tool (photo 2): push it between the shield and the lashes and lift your hand CAREFULLY, letting the tool wipe off the glue between the lash and the shield.   

NB! This must be done with extreme care to avoid any discomfort for the customer.

Step 11: Remove silicone shields

Double check that none of the customer’s lashes remain attached to the shield to avoid any discomfort for the customer when you remove the shield.

Wet a q-tip or lip wand generously with high-quality lash foam and gently roll it down between the skin and the silicone whilst holding the skin taut and pulling the shield in parallel direction with the eyelid.

Put the used silicones in soapy water immediately after removing them to prevent them from becoming dark-colored from the tint. Read how to disinfect silicones after the treatment.

Step 12: Finish the treatment

 As mentioned before – lashes should NOT look clumped together or otherwise dirty from the lotions residue after the treatment. All residue should be removed and lashes separated. If you are still new to this treatment and see lotion/glue residue on the lashes after removing the silicones we recommend dipping a fluffy mascara spoolie into the lash foam and brush lashes immediately after removing shields. 

NB! Always brush the lashes upwards only to avoid weakening the lift!    

PRO TIP: Roll the spoolie between your fingers while doing this to fluff up lashes even more.

If there is still any stickiness on the eyelids, use a damp q-tip, lip wand or cotton round to remove it. Eye lids have to be 100% clean without any stickiness/residue whatsoever at the end of the treatment. 

When you’re done, remember to tell your customers that they can work out, go swimming or wear mascara immediately after the treatment. There is no need whatsoever to wait 24h after a Ruthie Belle Lash Lift 🙂

Please read about home care from our dedicated article.