Step 5: Comb lashes onto the silicone shield and isolate them
Always comb the lashes straight up in the inner corner. In the outer corner you can brush them straight up or slighltly outward (only if your customer has very long lashes as this reduces the effect of the lift) for a cat eye effect. Hold the silicone shield in place with your fingers while combing, this avoids excess movement of the shield and makes the process easier.
It’s absolutely fine to readjust the direction of lashes a couple of times to get it right. To do that, just add another layer of glue to the lashes as it will dissolve the glue underneath. The efficiency of the lotions depends on the amount of glue used so when you see that the glue layer is starting to get too thick from repositioning lashes it’s a good idea to remove it with a damp lip wand and start over. Remove ONLY the part that you’re not happy with not all of the lashes!
Start combing and isolating lashes from the inner corner of the eye, using a Lash Lift tool or a Y-tool. Apply the glue onto the silicone shield in 5 mm portions and then comb the lashes upwards. If you apply the glue to the whole shield at once, the glue will be dry by the time you reach the outer corner. The glue dries in approx. 10 seconds on the shield.
Comb the lashes upwards firmly in order to attach them properly to the shield. If you attach the lashes weakly, they will loosen more easily from the shield which complicates the rest of the procedure. The lift will also come out stronger if lashes have been brushed up firmly.
NB! Make sure when combing the eyelashes onto the silicone shields that the waterline doesn’t flip. It usually flips when silicone has been placed too far from the lash line and/or lashes are pulled up too strongly. The flipped waterline weakens the curl.
NB! The lashes should be properly isolated on the silicone shield! They must not be bent, criss crossed or clumped together. The way they are positioned on the silicone is the way they will look after the treatment. Some lash artists like the effect of clumped together lashes after the treatment but when lashes start growing out they will continue growing in that same direction and after a few weeks they will start looking very uneven and unattractive.
It’s normal that it takes quite a bit of time (especially when you’re first starting out as a Lash Lift artist) to place the shields and isolate lashes. Don’t get frustrated because of that or rush yourself – it makes ALL the difference in the end look and it’s what will make your customers come back to you!
Keep checking the direction of the lashes you are pulling onto the shield as you go along – they must come straight up from their base. It’s easier to correct any mistakes on the go instead of dissolving the glue once it has completely hardened. Here is a tip how to do that easily – press down the tip of the silicone gently so that the bases of the lashes become clearly visible:
PRO TIP: When you have finished isolating lashes, remove the eye pad (or pull it down a lot from the inner corner) to reveal ALL of the small lashes in the inner corner. Use your magnifying glasses if you don’t see them otherwise. Lifting 100% of the tiny lashes in the inner corner is guaranteed to take your lifts to the next level!
Step 6: Apply curling/lifting/perming lotion
The purpose of the curling lotion is to break the di-sulfide bonds in the lash keratin to allow the lash to be shaped. Click here for in-depth Curling Lotion chemistry information.
NB! It is of utmost importance to understand that gentle lotions need to be applied differently than aggressive lotions. Make sure to find out whether you are working with gentle or harsh products before using them for the first time.
Not sure how to know for sure? No problem – click here to find out!
Always start applying curling lotion from the outer corner of the eye as the outer corner lashes are ALWAYS thicker and stronger than inner corner lashes so they need more processing time to lift as much as inner corner lashes. Remember – the more evenly lifted the lashes are, the more beautiful they look!
How long should I process curling lotion?
Lifting lotion processing time depends on:
- Strength of the lotion (the harsher the product, the shorter the processing time)
- Diameter (thickness) of the customer’s lashes
- Health of the customer’s lashes. Sometimes lashes look long but they are unhealthy (for example when customer is using a hormone based lash serum)
- Season. Skin, hair, lashes etc are drier in the colder months
- Temperature. Lotions work faster in warmer temperature
All brands provide the minimum and maximum timings for their lotions. We recommend taking these as a starting point to understand the strength of the lotion. To know the exact time when the lifting lotion should be removed, I recommend checking each customer’s lashes during every service.
NB! The same customer may require different processing times during different treatments!
Only by checking the lashes can you be sure that the lashes will not be over or under curled. We teach how to check this at our training sessions.
Remove lifting lotion with a dry cotton swab after processing.
Step 7: Apply Fixing Lotion
Fixing lotion neutralizes the pH level of the lashes after the curling lotion and fixes the new curl by restoring the di-sulfide bonds. Read in-depth about Fixing Lotion chemistry.
Always use a Fixing lotion of the same brand as the Lifting lotion, do not mix and match! Use the timings recommended by the brand. Fixing lotion is not an aggressive lotion so if you keep it on a few minutes longer by mistake, you don’t have to worry that it will harm lashes.
PRO TIP: If a lot of lashes that come off the silicone shield after the first Lifting lotion they should be applied back with glue prior to the Fixing lotion application. Alternatively, you can use transpore tape, kind removal tape, lash lifting shell, or any other available method or glue nozzle wipe.
If there are just a few lashes that came come off the silicone shield they can be secured with a cotton net. Just apply your preferred option ever so slightly after applying Fixing lotion, tint or Shine Repair onto the shield. Here is how to do this:
Always start applying fixing lotion from the inner corner lashes, neutralizing the effect of the curling lotion there first. Remember – inner corner lashes are always thinner and weaker than outer corner lashes so they need less processing time. Apply fixing lotion along the length of the lashes to neutralize the effect of the curling lotion. It’s necessary to use more fixing lotion than curling lotion because when you remove curling lotion with upwards movements you will inevitably pull some of the lifting lotion higher with the cotton swab than where you initially applied it. If you don’t neutralize all of the lifting lotion along the length of the lashes, it will keep processing lashes and you risk over processing them.
NB! If your customer’s lashes look great immediately after the treatment but they tell you that their lashes changed their shape to wonky/messy/uneven after washing their lashes or even the day after the treatment, it’s most likely because you did not neutralize all of the lifting lotion during the treatment!
Step 8: Tint the lashes
After removing the fixing lotion, tint the lashes with a high quality chemical dye of your preference. My personal favorite is a German brand called Schwarzkop that creates a super dark and long lasting effect.
Avoid using Henna, hybrid tints (such as Bronsun) and developers with a high hydrogen peroxide % after lamination.
If your customer has sensitive eyes, stay 1mm away from the skin to avoid watery eyes. Always make sure that the tint doesn’t get in the eyes. If your customer feels any irritation during that stage, the reason is ALWAYS tint getting onto the wet line or eyes so in case that happens check those first. Most people feel tint as soon as it gets on the wet line so remove it as soon as they feel it to prevent it from getting into the eyes. It’s best to remove it with a damp cotton swab.
After the tinting stage the cuticles of the lashes are still somewhat lifted so that tint goes into the lashes easier. This means that you can reduce the timings of the tinting compared to tinting without lifting. With Schwarzkopf I usually tint for 5-7 mins. Remove with a dry cotton swab.
Step 9: Nourish lashes
All modern Lash Lift systems end with a nourishing product to put moisture back into the lashes and to add nourishing agents to it. Don’t skip this step or use an unprofessional product (that’s not created specifically for this purpose) to save product cost. Lashes need pampering after lifting so skipping this step will leave the treatment unfinished. Using castor oil or any other cheaper alternative will not have a similar effect on lashes!
Lifting and fixing lotions work as a pair so it’s important to always use them by the same brand. This is not the case with the final nourishing product though. I recommend testing different nourishing products and combining the one you like the best with any brand’s Lifting and Fixing.
The final product of the treatment is removed with a damp q-tip.
Step 10: Loosen lashes from the silicone shield
If there are some lashes that haven’t come loose from the silicone shield after using the nourishing agent, hold the shield in place with one hand and hold a lip wand in the other. Wet the lip wand thoroughly with a lash foam and move it to the left and right on the shield, gently applying pressure. This will loosen the last lashes from the shield (photo 1). If there are any lashes still stuck on the shield, you can also use a Lash Lift tool (photo 2): push it between the shield and the lashes and lift your hand CAREFULLY, letting the tool wipe off the glue between the lash and the shield.
NB! This must be done with extreme care to avoid any discomfort for the customer.
Step 11: Remove silicone shields
Double check that none of the customer’s lashes remain attached to the shield to avoid any discomfort for the customer when you remove the shield.
When you use glue-free Anatomical Shields you can easily just lift them from the skin.
When you use any other type of shields, you must first dissolve the glue underneath the silicone for a painless removal. Wet a q-tip or lip wand generously with high-quality lash foam and gently roll it down between the skin and the silicone whilst holding the skin taut and pulling the shield in parallel direction with the eyelid.
Put the used silicones in soapy water immediately after removing them to prevent them from becoming dark-colored from the tint. Read how to disinfect silicones after the treatment.
Step 12: Finish the treatment
As mentioned before – lashes should NOT look clumped together or otherwise dirty from the lotions’ residue after the treatment. All residue should be removed and lashes separated. If you are still new to this treatment and see lotion/glue residue on the lashes after removing the silicones we recommend dipping a fluffy mascara spoolie into the lash foam and brush lashes immediately after removing shields.
NB! Always brush the lashes upwards only to avoid weakening the lift!
PRO TIP: Roll the spoolie between your fingers while doing this to fluff up lashes even more.
If there is still any stickiness on the eyelids, use a damp q-tip, lip wand or cotton round to remove it. If there is any tint residue between lashes or on the skin, use a damp q-tip or lip wand to remove it.
Eyelids have to be 100% clean without any stickiness/residue whatsoever at the end of the treatment.