Artikkeli: Korean Lash Lift Step-by-Step Guide
Korean Lash Lift Step-by-Step Guide
Table of contents
Technique and Why Product Choice Matters
A Korean Lash Lift is defined by changing the silicone shield after Step 1 after the disulfide bonds have softened. After the lifting lotion is removed, the shield is switched before Step 2 to a regular shaping silicone.
This mid-treatment shield change is what separates Korean lifting from traditional lash lifts. Without it, the result may look similar, but the technique is not the same.
There are multiple different ways of performing Korean lash lifts and there is not one “right” way to do it.
Why Korean Lash Lifting Requires Cysteamine
*Not TGA or TGA-Cysteamine Mix
Korean lash lifting depends on repositioning the lashes after the disulfide bonds have been softened but before the shape is fixed. This requires the lashes to remain soft without losing internal structural control.
Cysteamine-based lifting lotions soften the disulfide bonds more gradually and evenly and they preserve more of their internal structure during the processing window. This does not eliminate the risk of over processing, over stretching or even snapping, but it reduces how easily and how suddenly structural failure can occur when the lashes are being manipulated.
With TGA-based lotions, the softening happens very quickly, so the margin for error during shield switching is smaller. This increases the risk of overprocessing compared to cysteamine, which softens disulfide bonds more gradually.
In practice, the lash tips overprocess the easiest. This is why TGA lotions are usually kept away from the tips in traditional lash lifts. In a Korean lash lift, however, the lotion is intentionally worked across the full lash length, which removes that safety buffer. For this reason, TGA-based systems increase the risk of overprocessed results and are therefore poorly suited for Korean techniques.
This is also why many brands recommend extra intermediate steps for Korean-style lifting. Most of these systems are still based on TGA or TGA–cysteamine blends, which are not designed to be worked safely all the way to the tips. To compensate, brands introduce additional measures such as Step 1.5 nourishing lotions, protective butters or glazes on the lash tips, or even split application techniques where the lifting lotion is applied to the roots first and only later to the tips.
These steps are not there because Korean lifting “requires” more complexity. They exist to protect the lash from overprocessing when using fast-acting chemistry.
Instead of adding layers of protection to control unsuitable chemistry, it makes more sense to use a lifting system that is intended to be worked safely from root to tip. This is why cysteamine-based lotions are better suited for Korean techniques: they soften more gradually and allow full-length application without the same risk of tip overprocessing.
Korean lash lifting doesn’t need more steps. It needs the right chemistry for the way the technique actually works.
Here is an Instagram reel that explains this in more detail!
Step-By-Step Guide
Prep: Clean customer's lashes
Start the treatment they way that you normally would, by preparing lashes with a thorough wash and rinse.
For the best lash lift result, clean the lashes yourself — whether or not the client is wearing makeup. You simply see more (and better) than she does in the mirror.
Always rinse with saline (not distilled water) it's less irritating because it's closer to tear pH, and the salts gently open the cuticle, helping the lash lift lotions absorb better.
Step 1: Tape the eyelid and separate false lash layer
Stabilise and stretch the eyelid skin with tape. This creates a straight surface for an easier shield placement and exposes the full lash line. Do this for every customer, regardless of how much sagging their skin has.
NB! Don’t tape over the customer’s eyebrows - one bit of eyelid tape is enough to keep the skin in place throughout the treatment and it doesn’t dry out the skin like large bits of transpore / micropore tape do.
After taping, separate the false lash layer for a stronger lift without kinks in the lashes.
Step 2 – Lift on a Korean Shield (or Lash Lift Helper)
Goal: Soften the disulfide bonds as close to the lash roots as possible
Not: Final curl or shaping
With the eyelid skin already lifted and the lash line straightened, the Korean shield or Lash Lift Helper is placed as close to the lash roots as possible.
The purpose of this step is simple: position the lashes on the thin flat Korean shield (or Lash Lift Helper) so Step 1 can soften the disulfide bonds from as close to the roots as possible. At this stage, the lashes are still rigid, so tension during wrapping is normal and expected.
This is not the stage for shaping the lashes, perfect separation, or fine direction work. Do not waste time trying to make the lashes look perfect here. The only requirement is secure, root-close positioning so Step 1 processes all lashes evenly. Lash separation and final positioning are done later, on the shaping shield, before the Fixing step.
You can soften the lashes either on the thin Korean shield or on the Lash Lift Helper.
We recommend using a flat Korean shield as it allows you to work closer to the lash roots and reduces the risk of lifting lotion migrating toward the eye, since the lashes are elevated rather than lying flat.
Korean shields come in different softness and thickness level - make sure to choose shields that are:
- Super flexible
- As thin as possible
- Able to adhere to the skin without lifting or peeling
Shield quality makes a difference in how easy or difficult this step is!
Step 3 – Apply Lifting Lotion for Root-Close Softening
Mix the lifting lotion thoroughly with approximately 30–40% Powder Lift and allow the mixture to sit for about 20 seconds so the texture thickens. The purpose of adding Powder Lift at this stage is to create a tacky, grippy viscosity that allows the lifting lotion itself to hold the lashes firmly against the shield. This replaces the need for separate glue and is a core part of the Korean glueless method. The thickened, tacky texture ensures lashes stay secured under tension while the disulfide bonds are being softened close to the roots.
The exact amount of Powder Lift should be adjusted based on lash thickness. Thicker, stronger lashes require more Powder Lift, as they have higher resistance and are harder to keep secured on the shield. Finer lashes require less Powder Lift, since they adhere more easily and do not need as much tack.
NB! Do not use 50% or more Powder Lift, as excessive powder will slow down the efficiency of the lifting lotion and lead to longer processing times. Always start with a smaller amount of Powder Lift and increase gradually if needed. Do not add the full amount at once — in many cases, less Powder Lift is required than expected. If the viscosity accidentally becomes too thick, then simply add more lotion to make it thinner.
Step 4 – Applying the Powder–Lotion Mix
Apply the powder–lotion mix to the roots first, working as close to the lash line as possible without touching the skin. The root area should receive the thickest layer of product.
Once the roots are fully covered, spread the remaining product through the mid-lengths and tips using a lighter coating.
A thicker layer of lifting lotion processes faster and more efficiently because more active chemistry is in direct contact with the hair. Since the roots require more processing than the tips, they must receive the highest concentration and thickness of product.
The lengths and tips soften more easily, so a thinner layer there helps balance the processing time and allows the entire lash to soften more evenly within the same window, instead of the tips finishing too early while the roots are still underprocessed.
IMPORTANT: Never apply the product directly onto the skin. Keep it on the lashes only, as close to the roots as possible.
Step 5 (Optional) – Cover with a Compensator or Cling Film
A thicker layer of lifting lotion processes faster and more efficiently because more active chemistry is in direct contact with the hair. Since the roots require more processing than the tips, they must receive the highest concentration and thickness of product.
Using a Compensator
A compensator applies gentle, targeted pressure over the base of the lashes, helping to keep them in consistent contact with the shield while the disulfide bonds are softening. It also slightly limits evaporation, which can speed up processing.
Choose a compensator shape and size that fits the eye comfortably without pressing into the skin or distorting the lash line.
Using Cling Film
Alternatively, cling film can be used at this stage.
Pros:
- Slightly speeds up processing time (more than a compensator)
- Helps the lashes process more evenly by reducing evaporation
Cons:
- The film must be removed every time you perform a lash check
- Extra care is required during application to avoid transferring lotion onto the waterline
If you choose to use cling film, apply it only after the lotion placement is clean and controlled, then check carefully that no product has migrated toward the wet line.
Step 6 – Lash Check and Removal of the Lifting Lotion
Always perform a lash check to assess whether the disulfide bonds have softened sufficiently.
The lash check should always be done in multiple areas:
- in the inner corner
- in the outer corner
These areas often process at different speeds. In addition, lash readiness must be checked specifically at the root area, as the roots take longer to soften than the mid-lengths and tips.
Once the lashes reach the correct level of softening, remove all lifting lotion completely. Do not extend processing past this point.
Cysteamine-based lotions have a stickier, more adhesive viscosity than TGA-based lotions. Because of this, it is critical to ensure that all lifting lotion residue is fully removed before moving on to the fixing step.
Always use a damp tool (such as a damp cotton tip, brush, or applicator) to remove the lotion. Visually double-check the lashes and make sure no residue remains before proceeding.
A significant amount of overprocessing does not happen because the lifting lotion was intentionally left on for too long, but because residual lifting lotion was not fully removed. When residue is left behind, the lashes continue processing even after the intended processing time has ended.
Step 7 – Switch to the Shaping Shield
Remove the Korean shield (or Lash Lift Helper) and switch to your final shaping silicone shield.
Placement matters for two very practical reasons:
- If the shaping shield sits too far from the lash line → the result will look underwhelming.
- If the shaping shield is too close and touches the lashes → kinks at the base of the lashes.
The goal
Place the shaping shield as close to the lash line as possible without touching the lashes.
NB: Since Korean lifting processes the full lash length, shield shape and size selection can be very different from traditional techniques. Understanding how lashes change shape when you manipulate their entire length is essential to predicting the final result.
This is also the point where many lash artists start doubting their skills—not because they’re doing something wrong, but because they don’t yet understand how shield choice, eye anatomy, and lash growth direction interact.
Our Korean Lash Lift Online Course goes deep into shield selection logic and outcome prediction for different eye shapes and lash directions.
👉 View the course here — it also includes several free modules you can watch before committing.
Step 8 – Apply Fixing Lotion + Powder Lift Mix
For the fixing stage, mix approximately 20% Powder Lift into the Fixing Lotion.
When using our Fixing Lotion, process it 2 minutes less than the Lifting Lotion. 10 minutes is the absolute maximum processing time for our Fixing Lotion, so there is never a reason to exceed this.
At this point the lashes are fully softened, so they should stick to the shaping shield easily.
Once the shield is correctly positioned, this is where the pretty work happens: final direction, separation, clean alignment, and proper tension of the lashes - the way that lashes are set during this stage is how they will look after the treatment.
Super tip: this is your final reality check for Step 1
This stage gives you immediate feedback on whether Step 1 was processed long enough.
If the lashes:
- Resist staying on the shaping shield, or
- Try to lift or pop off while you are applying Fixing Lotion
It means the lifting lotion was removed too early and the disulfide bonds were not softened sufficiently. If Step 1 is fully processed, the lashes are relaxed and cooperative at this stage. They settle onto the shaping shield easily and should stay in place without any product. If they still “fight back,” there is still internal resistance left in the fiber.
What to do if this happens
You do not need to change shields again.
- Apply lifting lotion again
- Process for a few additional minutes
- Perform another lash check
- Then continue with the fixing step once the lashes sit naturally on the shield
NB! Correcting it here ensures the lashes lift properly instead of dropping later or looking underwhelming once the treatment is finished.
Step 9 – Tint
Tint using a high-quality tint with hydrogen peroxide ≤ 3%.
During the Lifting Step, it’s common for some melanin to be lifted from the lashes, which is why lashes can appear lighter or slightly washed out after that step. Whenever visible lightening occurs, tinting is strongly recommended to restore depth and visual definition to the result.
At this stage, the lift is mostly fixed, but lash direction still matters because while the new shape is set (Fixing lotion has rebuilt enough bonds to hold the lift), the lash hasn’t “returned to normal” structurally. Treat the lashes like they’re still in a more delicate, post-processing state.
So the way the lashes sit on the shaping shield during tinting can still influence the final look.
Apply the tint while maintaining the intended lash direction on the shield. Avoid brushing or dragging lashes out of alignment, and don’t allow the tint to push lashes sideways or downward. You’re now reinforcing the design you’ve just created.
Our preferred choice is Noemi Tint for its long-lasting results, pigment clarity and gentle formulation.
Tip: The deepest and most dramatic black in the Noemi collection is Black Night.
Step 10 – Remove All Residue
*You can remove the silicone shield at this stage
Remove all remaining product residue using a damp cotton pad, damp brush, or by washing the lashes with a gentle lash shampoo.
This step is not optional. Any leftover product—especially lifting lotion or tint residue—can continue interacting with the lash fiber and skin after the service is finished.
Leaving tint residue on the skin also goes against most tint manufacturers’ usage guidelines. In many regions, not following manufacturer instructions can invalidate your professional insurance coverage. If a client experiences a reaction and you have not followed the product guidelines, you may be personally liable.
NB: If you don’t fully wash and dry your client’s lashes after the treatment, you never truly see the final result.
Those situations where a client leaves with “juicy, perfect lashes” and then messages you 1–2 days later saying their lashes look overprocessed? That can only happen when the lashes were not washed and dried at the end of the treatment.
By washing and drying the lashes before the client leaves, you see the true, final outcome of the lift. Doing this eliminates uncertainty, prevents unpleasant follow-up messages, and protects both your results and your confidence as a professional.
In short: remove all residue from both lashes and skin before finishing the treatment.
Step 11 – Finish with Step 3 (Hydration & Conditioning)
Finish the treatment with a high-quality Step 3 to hydrate, condition, and visually refine the lashes after lifting and fixing.
*You can also do this before washing lashes and removing the shield but leaving it as the very last step of the treatment allows the nourishing product to stay on the lashes longer.
It’s generally more effective to use one well-formulated Step 3 rather than layering multiple different finishing products that each deliver only a small benefit. After chemical processing, the lashes are essentially an empty bucket—they can absorb hydration and conditioning only up to a point. Once that bucket is full, adding more products doesn’t increase results; it simply overflows.
NB! A single, high-quality Step 3 can fully replenish what the lashes need in one controlled application, without unnecessary layering or buildup.
While the lift shape has been set, some disulfide bond re-formation continues naturally in the hours following the treatment. Step 3 supports the lash fiber during this period by improving flexibility and reducing surface friction—but its role goes beyond that protection alone.
At this stage, Shine Repair also helps further close and smooth the cuticle layer (by up to 99.9%!), which is especially important after chemical processing.
A more compact cuticle reduces friction, improves shine, and helps the lash retain moisture and structural integrity as it stabilizes.
Lami Juice works differently. It is a cationic conditioner, meaning its positively charged ingredients are naturally attracted to the negatively charged areas of chemically processed lashes.
The polyquaterniums in Lami Juice bind to weakened or more porous parts of the lash fiber, helping to smooth the surface, improve cohesion between fibers, and visually enhance lash alignment.
This is what allows Lami Juice to create a more defined, denser-looking lash line without stiffness or heaviness.
Read more about Shine Repair & Lami Juice here.
