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Similarly to lash lifting lotions, innovation is also happening in lash lift shields in terms of both style and materials used. Not one style or size fits all, so I recommend testing different types of shields to find out what suits you and your customers the best!
NB! Silicone shields may be used ONLY 4-5 times before they become unhygienic and start transferring germs between clients. Read about the science behind this here.
The smaller the silicone size, the stronger the curl it creates.
S – small (intense curl)
M – medium (medium curl)
M1 – (slighter curl than with medium)
M2 – (slighter curl than with M1)
L – large (natural curl, perfect for relaxing lashes that are naturally too curly)
Over time all lash artists also develop their preferences on shield sizes but to begin with, I would recommend choosing the shield size depending on the length of the customer’s natural lashes. Use the lash lifting tool to measure lash length like this:
Anatomical Shields
The new generation of lifting shields are glue-free! They are called anatomical shields because of their shape that anatomically mimics the shape of the eye. Due to this and the super soft silicone that they have been made of, they can be applied on to the eyelid without glue! They hug the eyeball snugly and won’t move out of place.
This makes their application and clean-up process at the end of the treatment much faster, cutting down on your treatment time.
They also have a very distinct apex so it is quite easy to see where the lift will be achieved. As a rule of thumb, the apex should be approximately 30-50% of the length of the natural eyelash.
We recommend using anatomical shields on clients with straight or upward-growing eyelashes.
They are also the best option for customers with very sensitive eyes or sensitivity to lash lift glue.
PRO TIP: You can reverse the shield (use the left eye shield on the right and vice versa) to perfect the lift for lashes that grow more downwards in the outer corner. When reversing anatomical shields, the flat outer bit must be cut off in order to achieve a proper fit on the eyelid.
They will give your customers a lift that’s comparable to lash extensions M curl.
Regular white shields
White shields can either create a strong flat lift (comparable to lash extensions L curl) or a round lift (comparable to lash extensions C, CC or D curl), depending on the size of the shield used.
If you want to soften the white silicone shields, roll them between your fingers prior to use.
PRO TIP: There is a silly trend going around using micropore tape on eyelids underneath the silicone shields. This is supposed to make removing the silicones after the treatment easier. Why do I say that it’s silly? Because there is absolutely no need for it! If you follow this guide you will be able to remove the silicones with ease without using this old school tape on the most sensitive skin humans have. Micropore tape is super sticky and dries out the skin of the eyelids for absolutely no reason.
How to choose silicone shield size for a perfect lift?
Choice of the shield size depends on:
It’s recommended to have a look at the first three (lash growth direction, eyelid shape and desired effect) during consultation, when customer’s eyes are open and fully decide on the shield size during the treatment after measuring the length of the lashes.
Here are the lash lengths and corresponding shield sizes I’d recommend:
- Lashes shorter than 7 mm – S
- 7–8 mm – M
- 9–10 mm – M1
- 11–12 mm – M2
- Lashes longer than 12 mm – L
- 6–8 mm – S
- 9–10 mm – M
- 11–12 mm – L
- Lashes longer than 12 mm – XL
We don’t recommend using anatomical shields on lashes shorter than 6mm because the apex won’t allow to create a visible lift. For super short lashes we recommend using shorter sizes of silicone shields with ridges as they are much smaller than any other shield we have ever seen.
You can use smaller sizes to create a more dramatic lift, however the apex should not be less than 30% of the natural lash in order to avoid an unnatural bend which can also cause discomfort for the client. Eyelashes can go over the edge of the shield but in this case one must remember not to use any lifting/curling lotions on the tips of the eyelashes in order to avoid kinks.
Glue-free anatomical shields are simply placed on the eyelid without glue. Their shape and material make them stick to the eyelid without any trouble. Left and right eye shields are different so make sure to use them on the correct eye.
PRO TIP: You can reverse the shield (use the left eye shield on the right and vice versa) to perfect the lift for lashes that grow more downwards in the outer corner. When reversing anatomical shields, the flat outer bit must be cut off in order to achieve a proper fit on the eyelid.
How to apply silicone shields?
Separate the false lash layer from the main layer before applying shields to avoid placing the shield too far. Here is a video how to do this:
Then hold the shield from its outer corner while positioning it: for instance, from the right if you are working on the right eye. Lift the customer’s eyelid gently in order to check that the silicone shield is placed as close to the lash line as possible.
For beginner lash artists we recommend using anatomical shields as they can be easily repositioned multiple times.
If you are a beginner and want to use the white shields instead, try positioning the shield without glue a couple of times first to achieve the right feel. When you are feeling confident, use the shield with glue. Pull the eyelid up a little with your finger, position the inner corner first and hold it in place with your finger. Then lift the outer side of the eyelid and position the shield there. Gently hold the shield in place for a moment with your fingers to allow it to attach properly to the eyelid.
NB! Apply the glue quickly to the silicone shield. It doesn’t have to be applied super evenly, it is more important to prevent the glue from drying out before the shield is in place.
How do I know if I placed the shield correctly?
One of the biggest reasons for an underwhelming lift is placing the shield too far from the eyelid. If the lashes are then brushed too tight, it will make the waterline flip, which results in a reduced curl. If the silicone is too far and lashes are brushed as tight as they normally should, it will still result in a reduced curl. So make sure to check the distance from the edge of the eyelid before proceeding. If you see any skin between the shield and the lashes, the gap is too big and the shield must be positioned again.
