What’s the difference between overprocessed and over curled lashes?
Overprocessing = some, most or all of the disulfide bonds inside the lashes have been destroyed. Since disulfide bridges give lashes their shape, destroying them makes lashes appear damaged and wonky or even break off. This can happen either if:
- Chemical formulation of the curling lotion is too aggressive
- Curling lotion with an aggressive formulation is kept on the lashes for too long
Over curled lashes = lashes are still healthy, just their shape is too curly. This can happen if:
- Silicone shield is too small
- Curling lotion has been applied too high up on the silicone
- Curling lotion with a gentle formulation is kept on the lashes for too long
What to do with over curled lashes?
With Ruthie Belle products you can do another Lash Lift immediately to straighten lashes. Reduce timing of the curling lotion a bit since the lashes are already curly before the treatment.
What to do with over processed (burned) lashes?
Over processing can only happen with aggressive Lash Lift brands so you never have to worry about it when working with Ruthie Belle Lash Lift system.
If you do get a customer whose lashes have been burnt with other products, then first, treat them with Shine Repair to restore some of the broken disulfide bridges and to close the lash cuticles. To do that, simply wash lashes with lash foam ▶️ rinse ▶️ cover lashes with Shine Repair in full length ▶️ remove residue after 6mins with a damp cotton pad.
Then leave at least one week before you try to fix them to give them some time to restore. During that time, the customer should use a lash food product to nourish, hydrate and revitalize lashes as much as possible. They should avoid using mascara as that dehydrates lashes even further. Using Lash BFF is highly recommended though!
NB! Using a regular lash serum will not revitalize damaged lashes and should be avoided during that time.
How to perform corrective lash lifting?
The best products for corrective lash lifting are organic as they also boost the health of lashes instead of dehydrating them further.
Never forget that you are working with lashes that have endured severe stress – it’s the most important part while fixing them! The corrective lift may not come out perfectly even when lashes are very damaged. It’s important to communicate that to your customer before the treatment to manage expectations. That being said, lashes will definitely be in a better shape and form after the corrective treatment so don’t be afraid to do it and recommend it to customers whose lashes have been burnt and look wonky.
Proceed with organic lifting as you normally would but avoid using cling film/heating mask. It’s best to reduce the timing of the organic lifting lotion by a few minutes (I would personally take off about 3mins, but timing can vary, depending on your technique and amount of lotion you use). Keep timing for the other steps the same length as you normally would.
Make sure to cover the full length of the lashes with all lotions as you need to restore the health of the whole lash.
Et voilà! You’ve rescued someone’s lashes just like that and probably got a new loyal customer out of this! Ask the customer to keep using castor oil/Brow Filler/Lash BFF and to check in with you with pictures of their lashes after 1.5 months so you can monitor their lashes and recommend when it’s time to re-lift them 😉
Eyelash boosting Shine Repair treatment
- Wash customer’s lashes thoroughly with alkaline Clean 11 foam
- Open lash cuticles with Easy Lift
- If required tint the lashes with a chemical dye
- Apply Shine Repair and leave on for 6 minutes and remove product residues with a damp cotton pad
Why does a Lash Lift fail (lashes don’t curl)?
It’s absolutely normal that newly trained Lash Lift artists and artists who are converting from old school aggressive Lash Lift brands to gentle brands need some practice to get their lifts to look fabulous. Aggressive and gentle lotions work very differently so my first recommendation is to thoroughly read the step by step guide on how to use our lotions.
My second recommendation is to do lifts for the first three models complimentary before charging customers, so there is no stress if the outcome is not what you expected. Take pictures of all the following stages of the treatment so that you can analyze and troubleshoot later, if necessary:
- Before the treatment
- Treatment stage when lashes have been brushed up on the silicone and separated
- Treatment stage when you have applied perming lotion
- End result
Make sure to write down the size of the silicone you used and the processing times for curling & fixing lotions. If you need help from my team, these are the things we will ask you to assist you in the best way:
- The most common reason why lifting fails to take is incorrect timing for curling lotion.
The more aggressive the lotions are, the more precise timings must be. With the most aggressive lotions, even 1 minute shorter processing may result in the lift not taking, and 1 minute too long can over process lashes. Gentle lotions are more forgiving and allow lash artists to test different timings without the fear of overprocessing. If you do a Lift with our products and realize that you would have liked a stronger curl, then add extra 2 minutes to curling lotion processing.
- Curling fails to take if you use too much glue in combination with too little time to process lotions. A thicker glue layer means that it takes lotions more time to penetrate it. This applies more to gentle brands as aggressive products can go through pretty much anything without problems. If you notice that your glue layer is thick with Ruthie Belle lotions, add 2 minutes to the exposure times.
- The positioning of the curling and fixing lotions on lashes plays a vital role in the outcome. Most aggressive lotions need to be applied only as a thin layer on the base of lashes to prevent excessive damage and to give a strong curl. Gentle lotions should be applied from the silicone’s very edge and applied to at least the middle of the lashes. The higher up you go with the lotions, the stronger the curl that they create. Remember – with our lotions you can go all the way up to the tips of the lashes without burning them off!
- The lotions layers are too thin. This is another thing that’s very different between aggressive and gentle lotions – aggressive lotions need the tiniest bit to do their job because of their very strong formulation. Gentle lotions need to have a layer that’s so thick that the lashes underneath cannot be seen.
- The silicone shield should be placed as near the lash line as possible to achieve proper curling. When the shield is in place, check that no skin is visible between the edge of the eyelid and the lashes. If you see any skin, remove the shield and position it again.
- If the lashes are combed too loosely onto the silicone shield, the curling effect will be significantly weaker than it should be so comb the lashes firmly against the silicone shield but ensure that the customer feels no discomfort.
NB! Don’t comb the lashes so vigorously that it turns the waterline out.
- Hormones may affect the ‘behavior’ of lashes to a surprising degree. If the customer is pregnant, has given birth recently, breastfeeds, or uses some specific medications, the possibility that Lash Lift may not take as well as it should or drops down within few days should be taken into account. For this reason, we always recommend having pregnant/breastfeeding customers sign a waiver before the treatment so that they are aware of that risk.
- Curling fails to take if the products have expired or have been stored incorrectly. E.g., the curling lotion is extremely sensitive to oxygen, so the air in the packaging deteriorates its effect, which leads to curling failure. Another example – when the glue is kept in direct sunlight, it becomes thick very quickly, which makes it difficult to adhere lashes to the shield easily.
- The outcome of the lifting is also affected by the size of the silicone shield. Depending on the customer’s lash length, eye shape, eyelid shape, and the desired outcome, you may use silicone shields in different sizes to create a beautiful curl. A large shield allows achieving a softer and more natural curl while a smaller shield produces a more dramatic curl.
What can cause an uneven Lash Lift result?
Lash Lift looks the best when lashes have been lifted evenly across one eye, and both eyes look evenly lifted. There are a few factors that make the result uneven, though:
- Lashes are not cleaned properly before the treatment. Makeup residue can make it difficult for lotions to penetrate, so make sure lashes are squeaky clean before the treatment.
- Lashes have different growth directions. Often, lashes in the outer corner grow more downwards than lashes in the inner corner, so they don’t lift as well. To overcome this problem, use Easy Lift ONLY in the outer corner.
- Silicone shield placement. If the silicone is placed further from the lash line on one eye, this eye will get a weaker lift. Make sure to check the distance before pulling lashes onto the shield and adjust the silicone if necessary.
- Curling lotion processing is longer on one eye than the other. We recommend using a stopwatch or timer to ensure lotions are kept on the same amount of time for both eyes to ensure lashes lift the same on both eyes. If you have an iPhone, you can use the timer on one eye and stopwatch on the other.
- Lashes on one eye are longer than on the other. To overcome this, use a larger shield on the eye that has longer lashes.
Can lash extensions be applied after Lash Lift?
When customers have very downward growing lashes, it’s helpful to lift them before applying extensions. Also, if they have very curly lashes, it’s helpful to straighten them (reverse Lash Lift) before applying extensions to make application easier and to extend retention.
When you finish the lifting treatment, it’s typically required to leave at least a 24-hour gap before applying extensions to let the cuticles fully close. When lash cuticles fully close and pH is neutralized after lash lamination, lashes are no longer sensitive to the outside environment.
When you finish the lifting treatment with Shine Repair, extensions may be applied immediately after lifting them:
- Perform Lash Lift the same way you normally would but choose only between the largest curls for silicone shields. The smaller curls like S or M can create an L-shaped lift, making it challenging to apply extensions. Larger curls like M2 and L create a soft round curl that makes it easy to apply extensions.
- Make sure to finish the treatment with Shine Repair.
- Wash lashes with alkaline Clean 11 foam to start opening cuticles again.
- Prime lashes with Adhesive Superdry to gently fully open cuticles again without dehydrating natural lashes.
Doing both lifting and extensions means putting a lot of chemicals around the eye area in one day, so it’s essential to use products that are as safe and gentle as possible to minimize any chance for a reaction.
Is Lash Lift suitable for short/weak lashes?
Lash Lift may and can be performed on all lashes, regardless of their length or strength. You can always recommend a serum after the treatment to your client to grow lashes longer or Brow Filler to strengthen lashes and help grow new lashes.
Can Lash Lift cause an allergy?
Allergy is always a possibility because people can be allergic to anything except for water and oxygen. The risk is minimized though, because Lash Lift products do not come into contact with skin during the treatment (except for the glue and the silicone shield).
The glue is water-soluble, nothing like a potent allergen like cyanoacrylate used for eyelash extensions. This means that individuals who are allergic to lash extensions can still try Lash Lifting. In fact, it’s a great idea to recommend lash lamination to customers who have had to give up eyelash extensions due to becoming allergic to the glue.
Do ask your customers about peroxide allergy before Lash Lifting because fixing lotion contains peroxide. Peroxide is used for tinting too, so women are usually aware of their allergy if they’ve had their lashes tinted before. This allergy is not common, but it’s always a good idea to double-check.
Can a lash serum be used after Lash Lift?
Yes, as soon as lash cuticles are fully closed after the treatment, your customers can use a serum. If you finish lamination with Shine Repair, your customers can apply serum immediately. If you don’t use Shine Repair, they should wait 24 hours before using serums.
How should silicone shields be disinfected after the treatment?
Immediately after the treatment, place the silicone shields in soapy water to soak to loosen the glue and lash tint; then rinse the shields and place them in the disinfection bath. After disinfecting, rinse the shields again with running water. You may use shields no more than four times; then, you must discard them.
Does Lash Lift damage natural lashes?
Read about the differences between various Lash Lift brands.
The answer depends on how strong the chemicals are that are being used. Ruthie Belle Lash Lift & Brow Lift product series are formulated with very mild chemicals that have a minimum drying effect. When we were developing our products, we decided to do a test – we did FOUR lash lifts in a row (the model did not even get up from the bed to take a break) to check the condition of her lashes after that. The result? There was NO damage WHATSOEVER!
Lashes are similar to hair – they get dehydrated from daily use of mascara and start looking dull because of the dehydration and damaged cuticles, so they require support to look their best. Most women don’t do anything to reduce that dryness or to nourish lashes, though, so lashes remain dehydrated.
We use Shine Repair to:
- Repair damaged and broken lashes/brow hairs
- Add an intense shine
- Make lashes/brows appear darker
- Add volume
- Fully close (99-99.9%) lash cuticles after Lash or Brow Lift
Below is a before/after picture after just ONE 4-minute treatment with Shine Repair:
So, lashes look more nourished and healthier after a Ruthie Belle Lash Lift than before.
This is not the case when Lash Lift is done with aggressive lotions, though. The harsher the chemicals being used are, the more damage they cause. Usually, after such a treatment, it is paramount that customers use a nourishing product at home to prevent lashes from becoming very, very dry. Lashes can feel weak and look wonky after treating them with strong chemicals or even break off. Also, there is always a requirement of how many weeks must be left between treatments to avoid overprocessing lashes. A big difference from being able to do four lash lifts in a row with zero damage!
It’s a good point to explain to customers, too, as lash lamination is still so young that most people still think all lifts are similar in their effect.
How should Lash Lift glue be stored?
Buy a high quality, fast-drying glue with excellent adhesion. It may sound obvious, but all lash lift glues (and lash extension glues) are not equal in their features. All glues can be used to glue lashes onto the silicone shield, but some require much more time and effort, both getting lashes on and off the shield.
When you open a new bottle of lash lift glue, we recommend following these steps to keep it fresh as long as possible and to use it till the last drop:
- Remove the stopper
- Remove the brush (you won’t be using it anyways for cross-contamination reasons)
- Pour out only the desired amount (because you can always get more if you run out) to your reusable crystal ring or glue ring or glove if you work with gloves
Using this trick will keep your glue fresh as long as possible and it will also make it easier to use the glue when it’s very fresh and normally takes a while to dry. This is because when you dispense the glue on your glue ring, the contact with oxygen will make it cure a little bit faster so you can work faster.
- On average, a lash lift glue can be used for 3-4 weeks only if the glue is used and stored correctly.
- Put the glue cap back on as soon as possible after each use to prevent oxygen from getting into the tube – oxygen dries the glue. It helps during the Lash Lift but makes the glue viscous before it is used up. Never allow more oxygen into the glue tube than necessary!
- Clean the glue nozzle immediately after lashes have been glued to the silicone shield. Glue on the tube rim allows entry of oxygen even while the cap is closed. The tube opening should be just as clean as at the first opening. It is best to clean it with a moistened paper tissue of a stronger material. No chemicals are needed, as all Lash Lift glues are water-soluble. Water is enough for cleaning the opening properly.
- Store the glue in a vertical upright position. If the tube is on its side or upside down, the glue will run into the cap due to gravity.
- Refrigerate the glue on the days it is not used. This extends the life of the product.
- Never leave your Lash Lift glue in the sunlight! Like oxygen, UV light makes the glue viscous. Store the glue in the dark. You don’t need to find a dark cave; a closed box or drawer is enough ☺
How long does Lash Lift last?
It usually lasts approximately between 6 and 8 weeks, but this depends on quite a few factors. Hence it’s always a good idea to give your customers a general idea and not promise any specific period.
What impacts how long the effect lasts:
- The most significant factor is the growth direction of natural lashes. If lashes grow more or less straight or even curl slightly upward, the effect lasts for a lot longer than with downward growing lashes. When downward growing lashes start to grow out, the effect disappears a lot quicker because every millimeter that grows out pulls the lashes towards the floor. So, when you look at the lashes from the front, it seems like they have flattened/lost their length because you simply see less of the lashes. The curl is still there, but you just don’t see it from straight ahead. I, Ruthie Belle, have lashes like this – my outer corner lashes grow so much downwards that I can see their top side from the mirror. When I get my lashes lifted, the inner corners look perfect for ~4-5 weeks, but the outer corners look perfect only for ~2 weeks. After that, they have grown out so much that the curl seems to disappear. Only when looking from the side the curl is still clearly visible; just its direction has changed.
- The growth speed of lashes – the faster they grow, the quicker the lift grows out. It’s especially important to mention this to people who use lash serums.
- Age – lash growth slows down with age, so the older we get, the longer our Lifts will last. It’s good to mention this to teenagers because their lashes grow much quicker on average compared to people in their 30’s or 40’s.
- Technician skills – it’s crucial that silicones are placed correctly and lashes are nicely separated during the treatment to make them look beautiful for as long as possible.
- Quality of the products used for the treatment – using aggressive fast processing lotions dehydrates lashes a lot. It’s usually not visible so much immediately after the treatment but over time when the effect of the nourishing lotion starts to wear off. This can leave lashes looking dry and lifeless after just 2 weeks.
- Lash growth cycle – when lots of customer’s lashes are in anagen or telogen during the treatment, the effect wears off much faster. This has the most significant impact during seasonal lash sheds. Therefore it’s a good idea to talk to your customers about growth cycles so they know what to expect during lash sheds.
- Home care – it’s vital to brush lashes daily to keep them looking beautiful. Removing makeup usually messes up their direction a little, and if lashes are not brushed afterward, they can look a bit wonky the following day.
My customer says her lift dropped after just 2 weeks?!
Lash Lift sets within 24 hours after the treatment. During that time, lash cuticles naturally close to the state they were in before the treatment, and all disulfide bonds are restored.
After that time, you can only modify the shape of the lift with high heat (like opening an oven door too close to the face) and with chemicals – it does not drop by itself!
Usually, when people say that their lift has dropped, it merely means that it has grown out and it’s time for a new lift!